Bacchanalia Review:

We dropped into Bacchanalia for lunch on a cold January afternoon. We needed something, a treat, a reminder that it's not all gyms and frugality at this time of year.

The main interior space is made from two oblong rooms that are tastefully decored with neutral colours. The ground floor is window-side booths or bar-side stools but we took ourselves up into the first floor and easily found a table for two with a window view out onto Chapel Walks.

Now within a concentrated area you can find yourself with quite a choice when you are gagging for a break from retail therapy or the office grind. Your Chop Houses are well-known to the bankers and barristers of the area and the quirkiness of Grinch is a favourite among your shoppers and administrators.

However Bacchanalia has a pleasing, clean modernity about it that won't easily go out of date and the layout provides diners, whether casually seated in a booth or making a date of it at a table, with space and a feeling of privacy that's absent from so many restaurants where maximising the number of covers, and therefore the takings, seems to be a priority.

The staff were efficient, chatty and friendly, even going as far as to offer a free cocktail creation, that one of their skilled bartenders has invented as his entry in the Drambuie cocktail competition, in order to get our taste-test opinion.

We both gave the Lancashire Cheese & Cherry Tomato Omelette (£5.25) a swing and found it to be richly cheesy with a dreamy melt in the mouth texture plus the cheery toms gave it a mildly sweet kick. A leafy green side salad was included that contained cucumber and red onion that had been so finely diced that you could almost imagine it had been done with a tiny penknife by the hands of a small sweatshop child, rather than the skilled chef that no doubt was responsible.

Contentedly filled with eggs, cheese and salad, I realised that we'd had a decent protein and nutrient fix, especially with the carrot and cranberry juices that were part of the cocktail creation. Perhaps our gym instructors won't be so scornful of our taking a break from our New Year resolutions after all.

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